Friday, 8 April 2011

Colour Cast and White Balance

Natural Outdoor Lighting

To familiarise myself with the white balance setting on my camera I am going to shoot three outdoor scenes with different lighting conditions (Cloud, Sun and Shade). For each condition I will take four shots using a different White Balance setting each time (Auto, Daylight, Cloud and Shade).

First of all I chose a scene with some Red Dear being the main subject. This scene is in the cloudy condition.

Cloudy

Cloudy

Using the cloudy white balance setting, the colour of the dear appears perfect but I feel that the white clouds between the trees appear slightly pink or red.

Auto

Auto

The Auto balance setting has removed the pinky/red haze from the background but it seems to have dulled the tones of the dear's fur.

Daylight

Daylight low 1

Daylight has had a very similar effect, it has dulled the fur and also given the background a very blue haze.

Shade

Shade

Finally, the shade balance has kept the dear a nice colour but the background is now far too pinky/red.

From all the settings above, the Cloudy setting has definitely given the best result but I would prefer there to be less of a pinky haze in the background. I would be inclined to edit this shot using Photoshop to see if I could put it's colour somewhere between that of cloudy and auto.

Sunlight

Daylight

Daylight

Auto

Auto

In the Auto shot, the colour of the lighthouse has turned slightly orange and could be mistaken for a shot taken as the sun is rising or setting. The sea is also very dark in this version.

Cloudy

Cloudy

Similar to the daylight shot, however it appears to lack as much depth and could do with more contrast.

Shade

Shade

The shade shot seems to have made the sea appear black. There is also still a slight yellow/orange tone to the white paint of the lighthouse.

The daylight white balance setting has definitely produced the best results in this sunny scene.

Shade

Shade

Shade 1

The shade setting has made a very good attempt at balancing this shot, it may be slightly too orangey though.

Auto

Auto 1

The auto setting clearly didn't know what to do here, this version is far too blue.

Daylight

Daylight 1

This setting isn't actually that bad however it's sightly too blue which is most noticeable when looking at the highlighted areas on the red leaves. Saying that, I feel this shot is acceptable.

Cloudy

Cloudy 1

Cloudy has done a very good job at balancing the colour here, it's very similar to the shade shot, but still appears too blue.

After reviewing all of the shots from the shadey condition, the shade balance has definitely done the best job at balancing the images colour. I still feel that it's slightly orange but when viewed side by side with another it's obviously the more accurate representation of the scene.

In the three conditions above, the best results have been produced when shooting with the white balance setting that corresponds to the condition. If a specific effect/colour cast is desired, then choosing an opposing setting can give very nice results. Also, if shooting in RAW format, it is possible to change the White Balance setting after the time of shooting using RAW processing software such as Adobe Camera RAW. This is extremely useful for those times when you just forget to change your camera's white balance. With Adobe Camera RAW it is not only possible to alter an images white balance setting, there is a temperature slider that can be used to customise the white balance to give a very specific colour tone.

Mixed Lighting (Indoor and Outdoor)

Next I will look at white balance settings for a mixed lighting condition. I shall shoot one photo from inside the house looking out and one from outside looking in, experimenting with the Sunlight, Tungsten and auto balance settings as I go.

Auto

auto

Using the Auto White balance setting, my camera has performed quite well in calculating the tone for the inside of the house, however overall the image appears to have a blue haze with the outside area in particular being very blue.

 

Daylight

daylight

Using the Daylight setting, the outside area now has the correct colour tone but the inside area appears quite orange due to the tungsten lamps.

 

Tungsten

tungsten

Finally, using the Tungsten setting has turned the outside area extremely blue but has done a nice job with correcting the tones for the inside area. A lot of light from outside was spilling in through the patio doors (seen in the shot) and widows (to the right of the shot) and therefore even the tungsten light areas have a slight blueish haze when using this white balance setting.

Out of the three images above, I feel that the Daylight balanced image is the most accurate and aesthetic representation of the scene because the outside area has the most accurate colour tones; with it being the main focal point of the shot this is more important than the inside area having the correct colour tones.

Saturday, 2 April 2011

Dynamic Range

The Dynamic range of an image is the range of tones between the brightest highlight and the darkest shadow. It is sometimes referred to as the contrast range but dynamic range is a more accurate and appropriate description. The dynamic range of a scene is the number of stops between the brightest highlight and the darkest shadow and therefore the dynamic range of a camera is the number of stops it can capture in a single frame. If a camera’s range is lower than that of the scene, detail is lost in clipped shadows and highlights, however if it is greater than the scene, no detail is lost and the image produced won’t contain any clipped highlights or shadows if exposed correctly.

Camera Dynamic Range

To roughly test the dynamic range of my camera I will shoot a scene containing both bright highlights and dark shadows and calculate the range between them in f stops. To do this, first I needed to wait for a sunny day and find an appropriate scene. Luckily I didn’t have to wait long, I decided to use the bright white door of our garage as the main highlight of my shot. A shaded area under a bush in the background provided an adequate area dark shadow.

I set my camera at ISO 100 to minimise the possibility of noise and chose an aperture of f/8 to keep the entire scene in focus. I also used the evaluative metering mode so that the my camera would tell me when the scene was correctly exposed. Before taking the shot, I made sure that there was as little highlight clipping on the door as possible. I couldn’t under expose too much as I would’ve lost a lot of detail in the dark areas.

1/160 secwith shutterspeeds

The shutter speeds written on the image indicate what it would’ve taken to correctly expose these individual areas. In order to find these shutter speeds I changed my camera’s metering mode to “spot” and zoomed into each area using my 200mm telephoto lens. I also took photographs of each image as I recorded the shutter speeds, these can be seen in the gallery below. I didn’t use a tripod so in the shots of the darker areas with slowest shutter speeds, there’s a quite a lot of camera shake blur.

Using Photoshop’s pixel value sampler I can see that the majority of the door’s tonal values are between 240 and 247; this is obviously right at the brightest end of the scale which runs from 0 (black) to 255 (white), any brighter and the area would have been highlight clipped. To find the darkest area that still contains detail I moved to the shadows at 100% magnification and increased the exposure by 2 stops so that the detail was visible. The image below shows the shaded area under the bushes clearly has a lot of noise now that I have increased the exposure.

exposure   2

The darkest pixels I can find that contain actually detail and aren’t “just noise” have values between 15 and 30 with the red channel having the highest and blue the lowest values in each area I test. The values drop to between 5 and 18 when I undo the extra exposure, telling me that the detail I see is in fact detail because if the values were now below 0 then what I saw a moment ago will have just been noise as detail can not just appear out of pure black. It is blatantly apparent that photographs contain much more noise in dark areas and therefore to retain as much detail as possible it is best to over expose these areas and then darken later using image manipulation software such as photoshop. However, overexposing an image with very bright areas will result in highlight clipping and so should be avoided. Slightly underexposing a shot of a bright scene and then increasing it’s exposure later is also something to think about. If a scene has a higher dynamic range than that of the camera, a tripod can be used to capture multiple versions of the shot, each at a different exposure and these can be merged together during post processing to create an image of maximum detail with a higher dynamic range than previously possible by a single shot alone.

Dynamic Range in stops

I have also calculated the dynamic range of my shot in stops. If the darkest area (containing visible detail) needed to be shot at 1/10 sec and the brightest at 1/1600 in order to correctly expose them and my camera was able to capture these areas in a single shot (without shadow or highlight clipping) it means that my camera’s dynamic range is at least 7 stops, if not 8. This seems to approximately comply with the findings of other people for my model of camera (Canon EOS 500D) but I have read claims of a range up to 11 stops.

Scene Dynamic Range

In this section of the post I shall explore study a variety of different scene to find their Dynamic Ranges in stops using the same technique as above.

High Dynamic Range

ISO 200  f/5.6  1/100s

high d r

Bright Area (Top of Hedge) – ISO 200  f/5.6  1/2000s

Dark Area (Shaded area of tree in foreground) – ISO 200  f/5.6  1/8s

Range in stops – 8 stops

 

Average Dynamic Range

ISO 200  f/9  1/640s

flower

Bright Area (Flower) – ISO 200  f/9  1/1250s

Dark Area (Moss in background) – ISO 200  f/9  1/13s

Range in stops – Approximately 6 and a half stops

 

Low Dynamic Range

ISO 200  f/9  1/320s

low range

Bright Area (Bottom Right Slab) – ISO 200  f/9  1/400s

Dark Area (Crack in middle between slabs) – ISO 200  f/9  1/30s

Range in stops – Approximately 4 stops

At a glance this scene appears quite flat thus one would assume it has a low dynamic range, however I would consider a range of 4 stops to be quite average and when viewing the histogram the values are spread quite far across the tonal scale therefore giving it an average range.

 

Average Dynamic Range (2)

ISO 200  f/9  1/80s

hgh range

A lot of the sky has been clipped in this shot but there are parts where it’s blue colour is still slightly visible.

Bright Area (Sky in background) – ISO 200  f/9  1/2000s

Dark Area (Leaves at top of image) – ISO 200  f/9  1/60s

Range in stops – Approximately 5 stops

 

Low Dynamic Range (2)

ISO 200  f/8  1/1000s

low DR

Bright Area (Whitest Cloud) – ISO 200  f/8  1/2000s

Dark Area (Grey Cloud) – ISO 200  f/8  1/500s

Range in stops – 2 stops